Question:
I gather orchid information from various sources (books, magazines, TV) and they all seem to contradict each other. How is a novice supposed to grow these beautiful plants?
Answer:
Orchid experts seem to differ in their recommendations on the best way to grow orchids. One reason for this inconsistency is the simple fact that these experts are scattered around the country or the world where the growing climates are vastly different. For example, Cymbidium growers in Virginia have a difficult time maintaining a 50 degree F night temperature in the winter whereas in San Francisco, growers just keep the plants outside. Likewise, Dendrobium growers in Virginia will tend to use native fir bark as a potting medium whereas in Hawaii, growers use the naturally occurring lava rock. It is always best to locate a grower in your geographic area so that the cultural recommendations for air circulation, fertilizer, humidity, light, potting media, temperature, and watering are applicable.
Question:
My favorite orchids are the Oncidiums with their florescent yellow flower sprays. How does one take care of them in the house?
Answer:
These 'Dancing Lady' orchids are grown under conditions that are similar to Dendrobiums and Cattleyas - given filtered light (diffused southern exposure), water once or twice a week thoroughly, and temperatures of 60-90 degrees F year round. Oncidiums respond positively to being placed outside during the summer as long as the sunlight remains filtered and the plant is off the potentially slug infested ground. These orchids have become quite popular today due to the compactness of the plant and the unusually large number of flowers (often dozens on heavily branched sprays). Traditionally, their flowers have been yellow but recent intergeneric hybrids have unveiled rich mahogany and sunset tones. Some even smell like chocolate.
Question:
I think my Phalaenopsis orchid is getting ready to bloom. What should I do with the fragile flower stem which appears to have tiny buds?
Answer:
This time of year is exciting for Phalaenopsis growers, as late winter is known as 'Phalaenopsis season' and almost every plant blooms. At first, the new flower stem (or spike) can be mistaken for a new root but within a few weeks, the small growth grows upward and elongates to as much as 2 feet before the buds start to form along the stem. When the buds approach marble size, the stem can be "staked up" by gently pulling up the stem and tying it to a wooden stick (If you want to get fancy, you can use curly willow and raffia). During the entire budding period (1-2 months), the plant must not be allowed to dry out or the buds may shrivel up and fall off. Finally, the flowers open and the grower is rewarded with an impressive display of cascading white or pastel blooms that last well into springtime.